NORTH AFRICA

BEVERAGES

Generally, North Africans do not drink anything with their meals, except perhaps water occasionally. As would be expected in arid areas, plain water, well chilled, is a treat. The in the market places of Het circulates through the crowds, festooned with hammered brass cups, dispensing water from cools the water by condensation. a sheepskin container which

Since the Koran expressly prohibits the drinking of alcohol in any form, Moslems are teetotalers, and in North Africa, certainly, they "total" a lot of tea. Cafés and bars dispense teas in various forms, and men congregate to chat and sip at all hours. These bars and cafés serve the same social function as our taverns, except that rarely is the clientele other than entirely male. In Egypt, tea is most often served flavored just with sugar. Algerians largely prefer green tea with a slight flavoring of mint. In Morocco, green tea is brewed with a heavy dose of fresh mint.

NORTH AFRICA

In fact, the making of mint tea is a highly formalized art in Morocco. It's usually the host's prerogative to make the tea at the end of the meal; in restaurants, one man (it's al- ways a man) does nothing but sit in a place of honor in the middle of the room making tea for the diners. Host or spe- cialist, he performs the task with great ceremony and serious concentration.

The equipment consists of a samovar of hot water, a tea. pot, separate containers of tea, loaf sugar, and mint, and a small hammer for breaking up the sugar pieces. All the pots and containers are of brass or, preferably, silver, and heavily chased. The tea, mint, and sugar are combined and brewed, and the host continuously tastes and adjusts until he feels the infusion is just right. And for Moroccans, "just right" is a fragrant mixture that is as sweet as possible but with the blended taste of tea and mint still discernible, if only barely.

MINT TEA

• Boiling water
• 1/2 tablespoons green tea
• 1 handful fresh mint leaves and stalks
• 1/3 cups sugar cubesfor 4 persons,
•  3 servings each

Rinse out a 3-cup teapot with hot water. Add tea. Pour in ½ cup boiling water, swish around in pot quickly, and empty water (leaving the tea in the pot, of course). This is supposed to remove any bitterness from the tea. Stuff mint leaves and stalks down into the pot and add sugar. Fill pot with boiling water. Let steep 5 to 8 minutes, checking occasionally to be sure the mint doesn't rise above the water. Stir, taste, adding sugar if necessary. Serve traditionally in small glasses set in silver holders.

NORTH AFRICA

For second helpings, the Moroccan would leave the mint and the tea in the pot, add a teaspoon of tea and several mint leaves, plus about a cup of sugar cubes and fill again with mint rises to the surface, boiling and taste for sugar and serve. The same process is re peated for a third pot; custom requires three helpings be offered and three helpings accepted.

Fruit juices are also popular. Grape juice, lemon juice sweetened with sugar, orange juice, and pomegranate juice diluted with water are particular favorites. All are usually perfumed with several dashes of orange flower water. Chilled coconut milk is also seasonally available.

Something called Almond Milk is particularly refreshing in hot weather. It's always served very cold.

ALMOND MILK

• 1 pound blanched almonds
• 1 cup sugar
• 4 cups water
• Several dashes orange flower water
• 4 servings

Reduce almonds to a paste. Combine in a blender with sugar, water, and orange flower water. Process until well mixed. Strain and chill until very cold.d